Ingredient Highlight: Mineral Oil

This is an ingredient which has been demonized in the bath and body products industry unjustly. I find that when I need a super healing type of lotion which happens in the cool dry winters we have where I live I always want a lotion with mineral oil as one of the ingredients. I want to take the time in this post to simply lay out the facts of what mineral oil is and why it is beneficial to many products. 
Fun facts:
1. It's a natural ingredient as it comes from the earth
2. It's also a vegetarian and vegan ingredient as it contains no animal by-products
3. It's non-comdogenic (does not clog pores)
4. It helps skin to retain moisture (which is why it is so great in winter skincare products)
5. There are different quality grades of mineral oil going all the way up to food grade
6. The mineral oil found in skin and beauty formulations is very pure, it is also regulated by the FDA to ensure these claims

7. Some of the most high end skin care products in the industry have mineral oil as an ingredient
https://www.cremedelamer.com/product/5834/12343/moisturizers/creme-de-la-mer/moisturizer-for-dry-skin#/sku/26766






8. It gives excellent "slip" and helps products to slide across the skin
9. It is commonly recommended as a post surgical skin protectant after procedures due to its long history of safety and effectiveness

Ok so why all the hate? 
I did a little googling to see what others are saying about it, here is what I found:
1. mineral oil is toxic
2. mineral oil "may" be carcinogenic
3. mineral oil clogs pores
4. It makes your skin look more aged than it is
5. It damages skin
6. It dries the skin out
7. It sits on top of skin creating a film and "suffocating" the skin 
8. It blocks the absorption of vitamins into the skin

This information was obtained from websites that had no scientific evidence to back it up. Some claims did have links to scientific papers that theorized that maybe, possibly these facts might be true but the research was actually done on crude mineral oil which is used in industrial capacities and not cosmetic ones. Some sites quoted estheticians who have famous movie star clients, but that doesn't make them an authority on the matter, while they probably excel at giving a rocking facial they are in no way scientists. They  just happen to have a bigger platform to influence unwitting people who find these trash articles and take them as gospel.

The above "hater" points are completely unfounded, meaning I have NO clue where the writers contriver their information so I couldn't do further research. Other points I believe have been handed down over the years and are now regarded as fact. Just know that absolutely ZERO of the above points are true or accurate. 

Here are a few reasons that mineral oil is awesome in products. 
1. It forms an occlusive barrier to help prevent TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss) Our bodies are in a constant state of water loss, to have a product available to help with this issue is pretty neat. I think of mineral oil containing products as a thin sleeve holding all the other fabulous ingredients close to my skin while they slowly sink in and work their magic.
2. It has been around since at least the 1700's and probably longer than that. The 1700's was the first time Merriam-Webster has record of the term Mineral Oil. The longer the history of use the more we have to go on as far as safety and effectiveness of an ingredient. 
3. It is inexpensive! This is actually a good thing. Even the highly refined very pure mineral oil is an excellent price. This is a great addition to a product and gives the formulator extra room in their budget to add other higher end ingredients to make your epidermis sing.
4. It ranks very low on the skin irritant scale, and if you are allergic to nuts and thereby nut oils this may be a great alternative for you

So there you have it folks, mineral oil, the forgotten hero in skin care. If you are having dry skin problems this winter give it a try and see what you think.

Peace
~Smithy

The "GO MINERAL OIL" articles
https://www.chemicalsafetyfacts.org/mineral-oil/
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378427417311542
https://www.self.com/story/beauty-myth-or-fact-mineral-oi
https://thebeautybrains.com/2006/11/the-top-5-myths-about-mineral-oil-part-1/
https://thebeautybrains.com/2006/12/myths-about-mineral-oil-part-2/

The nay-sayer articles:
https://www.bewell.com/blog/3-key-reasons-to-avoid-mineral-oil/
https://www.allure.com/story/mineral-oil-skin-care

The Skin

Let's talk about our largest organ. THE SKIN! 
Fun facts:

• The skin is part of the integumentary system which comprises the hair, skin, nails, specialized glands and nerves.
• The skin is the largest and heaviest organ- it comprises 16% of your bodies weight, (bonus fact- the liver is the second largest and heaviest).
• The skin is a barrier, a thermostat, a sensor, a factory and a window.
• The skin can be broken down into 3 major layers with minor layers living within those layers
• the epidermis, dermis and hypodermis
• The epidermis has 5 layers (stratum corneum is the top most layer with stratum lucidum, stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum and stratum basale following deeper and deeper.)
• The has 2 layers and it's main job is to connect the epidermis to the hypodermis and provide structure and support (papillary layer and connective tissue are it's 2 layers)
• The hypodermis has one layer it's job is to provide insulation and support.

Alright- let's break this all down! I am going to focus on the epidermis because that is the part that is most directly affected by skin care products.

The skin is a barrier. I am going to repeat this THE SKIN IS A BARRIER, it is NOT a sponge. Every time I see someone write this on FB or say it I die a little bit on the inside. If the skin were a sponge we would drown every time we took a shower or bath. 

The skin is a waterproof barrier that seals the body from losses of fluid that could lead to dehydration and death. It resists invasions by various types of microorganisms such as bacteria, fungi and viruses that cause infection and serious illness. The skin also blocks many chemicals and allergens from entering the body.

The skin is a thermostat. The skin has the ability to help cool you down or keep you warm, it works in conjunction with the blood vessels to do this. 

The skin is a sensor. It has millions of receptors and nerve endings. There are different types of receptors which perceive different stimuli.

The skin is a factory. The skin is the body's vitamin D production factory. We need vitamin D to build healthy bones a strong immune system which will in turn fight cancers and other diseases as well as mitigate depression and even multiple sclerosis.

The skin is a window. How you feel inside directly affects how your skin can look. If you are happy and healthy and internally balanced it will be reflected in your skin. If you are stressed, anxious, depressed or have some internal health issues it can be reflected by way of skin flare-ups, disease processes, brittle nails and hair. People with eczema and psoriasis tend to have flare-ups when they are stressed or having diet issues.* 

Let's talk epidermal layers!

Stratum corneum- contains 15-20 layers of dead skin cells that ultimately slough off.

Stratum lucidum- this layer is mainly found on thick skin like the palms of the hands and soles of feet, it contains dead keratinocytes.

Stratum granulosum- keratin and lipids that waterproof the skin are produced in this layer

Stratum spinosum- synthesis of keratin proteins begins in this layer

Stratum basale- the cells of this layer divide indefinitely to form daughter cells that rise through the epidermis. Basal cell cancers arise from this level.

Skin and skin care products. Some ingredients can absorb into the deeper layers of the epidermis, these are called active ingredients. Cosmetic chemists often talk about the penetration abilities of ingredients. This is what they are referring to. 

Other ingredients can absorb even deeper, sometimes because of the penetrative abilities and what they can accomplish on a deeper level these products fall into the category of being a drug and must be tested and approved through the FDA, by the way, sunscreen falls into this category, never buy sunscreen that is not FDA approved, you have no idea if it will actually provide the protection that it claims otherwise. On a side note, at this time, there is only one approved CBD topical that has been proven to penetrate deeply and be effective for bone and joint pain. Consider this if you are in the market for a CBD topical that you want to penetrate deeply. 

Some products sit on top of the skin and work their magic at that level, many handcrafted skin care items fall into this category. (some makers do use active ingredients and have products that penetrate deeper.) At the time of writing this post SOAPSMITHS products do not contain any actives nor do they fall into the category of a drug. 

Hard Cider Soap by Soapsmiths

When formulating products I take into consideration what I am trying to achieve. If I am making soap I need it to clean. THAT IS IT! If someone gives you a song and dance about other properties their soap has just smile and nod because you now know that it only cleans and as a wash off product it most likely does nothing else. The second someone claims any differently their soap becomes either a cosmetic or a drug and they could be up a creek without a paddle if the government folks catch wind of it.

Sugar Scrub by Soapsmiths

When formulating a scrub I want it to exfoliate those dead Stratum corneum cells so that the lotion that I will apply after can hydrate and protect the layers of skin that were under them.

Cocoa Mint Creme by Soapsmiths

When creating a lotion I want it to hydrate and protect. The best way to do this is to use a combination of oils and waxes which will both sit on top of the skin forming an occlusive barrier while also hydrating those top most layers. A product like a lotion is really the place to add special ingredients which may improve skin barrier function. The only way to really know would be to submit it for testing. Most small makers don't have the financial means to do this so we take our ingredient and formulating knowledge and build a product based on what we know. 

So there you have it. The skin is an amazing giant organ which keeps good things (like our organs and fluids) in and bad things (bacteria, yeast, fungi, etc.) out! Treat it well and you two should have a long and prosperous life together.

TED talk link all about the skin.

I also referred to the Reader's Digest Guide to Skin Care by Susan C. Taylor, M.D. and Victoria Holloway Barbosa, M.D.

Additionally I popped over to a blog called the Chemists Corner for information on the penetration of ingredients. https://chemistscorner.com/penetration-of-cosmetic-ingredients/

* Regarding my comment on eczema and psoriasis, if you are having trouble with skin conditions please seek professional medical advice, I am not trained in human medicine and do not make any claims or diagnoses with what I write.

~Yours in scientific musings

'Smithy

Home Skin care Part I

Today I thought it would be nice to put up a fun home spa recipe for all to try.  I pulled out my mountain of papers and recipes and began to sift through looking for THE recipe of the day.  UGH!  Who makes these things up?!?  Either they have ingredients that wouldn't possibly be readily available in someone's home (seriously - who keeps dried yarrow on hand?).  Or they are recipes that I am convinced the author never tried on their own face but still decided to recommend it.....yikes!
For today I decided to change gears a little, let's talk about proper face care steps. 

These three steps should be done twice daily, make it your personal time, even if it is only 5-10 minutes that you get.
 Remember to include your neck in this process as it will age just as fast as the skin on your face and is often forgotten.

1. Cleanse: this will rid your skin of dirt, makeup and oils

2. Tone: this will close pores after they have been cleansed, making them appear smaller, toners also help to balance the pH of your skin.

3. Moisturize and sunscreen: to replenish and protect your skin

Let's talk about the daily routine and discuss a little further.  While you want to cleanse your face and rid it of the grime of the day you don't want to completely strip it twice a day of it's natural protection, also known as sebum.  Find a gentle cleanser that makes you feel clean without your skin feeling too tight and dry, the more harsh the cleanser the harder your skin will have to work to re-set to its proper pH causing more issues in the end.  A personal favorite of mine are cleansing milks.  I didn't like them at first because they weren't bubbly and I thought therefor not cleaning my face, but after a trial period of using them I realized that my face felt great, it was less dry and just felt nice to the touch after.

An example of cleansing milk

Toner is one of the great unsung heroes of skin care.  Although there are many ways toner can be formulated most toners help to close pores and re-balance pH which is very important for the health of your skin.  The healthy pH of skin is about 5.5 but cleansers usually have a more alkali pH so the skin needs to be re-set afterward so it does not go into overdrive.  When skin goes into overdrive the sebaceous glands work extra hard to re-coat your face sometimes they overshoot causing your skin to feel oily soon after washing your face, and who wants that to happen?  I like to put my toner into a little spray bottle for good coverage on my face and neck.

Toner in a spray bottle

Now the final step of your regular regimen, moisturizer.  A good skin appropriate moisturizer will help to cover and protect your skin from daily wear and tear.  Of course a sunscreen should also be used or a moisturizer with a sunscreen for daytime.  If you live in a cold climate you may find that a lighter moisturizer works better in the summer and a little bit of a heaver one helps in the winter.  Don't mistake oily skin for moisturized skin though and don't skip moisturizer in the summer just because your skin gets oily.

Moisturizer

There are always additional steps that can be done to further improve your skin and keep it looking young and healthy.  These things would not be done on a daily basis, maybe a couple of times per week but you will have to listen to your skin and its needs to really know.

They are:

Exfoliate

Steam

Mask

All of which can be done at home periodically which we can discuss in another post.

Bubble on my friends
~Your Soapsmith