Ingredient Highlight: Mineral Oil

This is an ingredient which has been demonized in the bath and body products industry unjustly. I find that when I need a super healing type of lotion which happens in the cool dry winters we have where I live I always want a lotion with mineral oil as one of the ingredients. I want to take the time in this post to simply lay out the facts of what mineral oil is and why it is beneficial to many products. 
Fun facts:
1. It's a natural ingredient as it comes from the earth
2. It's also a vegetarian and vegan ingredient as it contains no animal by-products
3. It's non-comdogenic (does not clog pores)
4. It helps skin to retain moisture (which is why it is so great in winter skincare products)
5. There are different quality grades of mineral oil going all the way up to food grade
6. The mineral oil found in skin and beauty formulations is very pure, it is also regulated by the FDA to ensure these claims

7. Some of the most high end skin care products in the industry have mineral oil as an ingredient
https://www.cremedelamer.com/product/5834/12343/moisturizers/creme-de-la-mer/moisturizer-for-dry-skin#/sku/26766






8. It gives excellent "slip" and helps products to slide across the skin
9. It is commonly recommended as a post surgical skin protectant after procedures due to its long history of safety and effectiveness

Ok so why all the hate? 
I did a little googling to see what others are saying about it, here is what I found:
1. mineral oil is toxic
2. mineral oil "may" be carcinogenic
3. mineral oil clogs pores
4. It makes your skin look more aged than it is
5. It damages skin
6. It dries the skin out
7. It sits on top of skin creating a film and "suffocating" the skin 
8. It blocks the absorption of vitamins into the skin

This information was obtained from websites that had no scientific evidence to back it up. Some claims did have links to scientific papers that theorized that maybe, possibly these facts might be true but the research was actually done on crude mineral oil which is used in industrial capacities and not cosmetic ones. Some sites quoted estheticians who have famous movie star clients, but that doesn't make them an authority on the matter, while they probably excel at giving a rocking facial they are in no way scientists. They  just happen to have a bigger platform to influence unwitting people who find these trash articles and take them as gospel.

The above "hater" points are completely unfounded, meaning I have NO clue where the writers contriver their information so I couldn't do further research. Other points I believe have been handed down over the years and are now regarded as fact. Just know that absolutely ZERO of the above points are true or accurate. 

Here are a few reasons that mineral oil is awesome in products. 
1. It forms an occlusive barrier to help prevent TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss) Our bodies are in a constant state of water loss, to have a product available to help with this issue is pretty neat. I think of mineral oil containing products as a thin sleeve holding all the other fabulous ingredients close to my skin while they slowly sink in and work their magic.
2. It has been around since at least the 1700's and probably longer than that. The 1700's was the first time Merriam-Webster has record of the term Mineral Oil. The longer the history of use the more we have to go on as far as safety and effectiveness of an ingredient. 
3. It is inexpensive! This is actually a good thing. Even the highly refined very pure mineral oil is an excellent price. This is a great addition to a product and gives the formulator extra room in their budget to add other higher end ingredients to make your epidermis sing.
4. It ranks very low on the skin irritant scale, and if you are allergic to nuts and thereby nut oils this may be a great alternative for you

So there you have it folks, mineral oil, the forgotten hero in skin care. If you are having dry skin problems this winter give it a try and see what you think.

Peace
~Smithy

The "GO MINERAL OIL" articles
https://www.chemicalsafetyfacts.org/mineral-oil/
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378427417311542
https://www.self.com/story/beauty-myth-or-fact-mineral-oi
https://thebeautybrains.com/2006/11/the-top-5-myths-about-mineral-oil-part-1/
https://thebeautybrains.com/2006/12/myths-about-mineral-oil-part-2/

The nay-sayer articles:
https://www.bewell.com/blog/3-key-reasons-to-avoid-mineral-oil/
https://www.allure.com/story/mineral-oil-skin-care

Ingredient highlight - Argan Oil

Argan oil is something that has seemed to hit the mainstream over the past few years. I see it in the

Goats eating the argan nuts in Morocco

drugstore frequently in the hair care aisle. 

Argan oil comes from the Argania spinosa tree which is a slow growing tree native to Morocco and the oil itself is extracted from the seed of the plant. It is a labor intensive process which is typically done by the women who are native to that area. 

Typically referred to as "liquid gold" in europe, this oil is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamin E and other vital nutrients. In hair care products, it helps to smooth frizz and split ends as well as provide softness. In skin care products, it nourishes, protects elasticity and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It can help to nourish dry, brittle nails. I also saw recommendations to use this to help diminish scars (due to the high vitamin E content.)

Due to the cost of this oil I would not use it in a wash off product such as soap. I have used it on my hair and like it very much as a leave in oil. To give a rough example of price difference I went to one of my vendor sites and compared the cost of Argan and Extra Virgin Olive (EVOO) oils. 1lb of EVOO is $4.99 while 1lb of Argan is $21.99- WHEW! Big difference. 

So, yes, argan oil is absolutely lovely and has many fantastic benefits to the skin, hair and nails. However I think it is better utilized in leave on products where it can really work it's magic.

Ta for now
~Your Soapsmith

What’s Curing?

Available January 2019 locations to be announced.

Ingredients: Saponified oils of olive, coconut, palm kernel and castor. Also contains sodium lactate, essential or fragrance oils and colorant. (see below for specifics.)

Lemongrass, grapefruit and basil essential oils,
green chrome oxide and nettle leaf powder.

Spearmint, eucalyptus and peppermint essential oils,
pearly white mica, ultramarine blue and vita burst beads.

Ylang ylang, patchouli essential oils,
vita burst beads and chamomile powder.

Coconut lime fragrance oil,
green chrome oxide and nettle leaf powder.

Lemon and lavender essential oils, no colorants added.

Ingredient Highlight- Palm Oil

I am going to write about an ingredient that has fallen out of favor

Palm tree and fruit

in the past decade or so due to not being sustainably sourced. The ingredient is, of course, palm oil. This is one of those oils that is found in pretty much EVERYTHING anymore, it is the most commonly used vegetable oil in the world at the moment. You can find it in packaged foods, cosmetic products, soaps and it is even used industrially. Other countries use it commonly for a frying oil and some even use it as an industrial lubricant. While the palm tree is native to Africa, both Malaysia and Indonesia started to clear cut their own forests in order to plant palm tree farms to capitalize on this versatile product. The problem in doing that is that they are taking away the only habitat that many animals, including the Sumatran Orangutan live in. This animal is presently critically endangered. In our lifetime this species could go extinct because of something that humans have done, that's just heartbreaking...

Sumatran Orangutan

When I initially learned about all this many years ago I thought "well that's it, no more palm oil"......right.....that's when I learned that it is in so many different products. Ok, so what next? How do I try to be a good conservationist and be good to the earth when I can't just eliminate this ingredient from my life? Enter the RSPO or Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil. This group of people has come together to try to work with the palm oil growers and come to an agreement on how to make this product more sustainable. (Yahoo!). They have made great strides in the past 10 years but still have very far to go. What I have to remind myself is that the answer is not to just stop palm oil production or boycott palm oil, it is to try to work within the confines of the industry and to help educate the farmers growing it and the governments that are clear cutting their own lands. This is someone's livelihood after all, it's got to be a 2 way street if it's to be successful.

So how can you help? Spread the word about palm oil and sustainable palm oil and aim to buy products that use sustainable palm oil. Let your dollars be your voice! Be the voice for those who have none (like the Sumatran Orangutan).

Resource #1 is on the world wildlife fund page. Resource #2 is the UK based page which is put together by the Chester Zoo.  With more digging I was able to find on the RSPO site a page that lists companies which are members but it's rather cumbersome and not very helpful in a shopping scenario. They also have an app which I am downloading at the moment. (edit to add) AHA! Upon further searching there are quite a few apps which you can use to scan products to see if they are "Orangutan friendly" as the one app states. Check out this site, they have information on the apps and other great information. Cheyenne Mountain Zoo also has an app which I just used on some items in my fridge, it was pretty neat.

Take this journey with me. Let's work together to become better conservationists for a more sustainable future. Typically I feel that since I am just one little person I cannot make a difference with something that is just so big but today I am feeling plucky, today I feel that I CAN make a difference and I am going to try to. So.....palm oil challenge???

These and many more animals are affected by the palm oil industry

Stay tuned my friends
~Your Soapsmith

PS- Upon checking with my soap ingredient vendors I am ecstatic and relieved to find that the palm oil and palm kernel flakes I use in my soaps ARE sustainably sourced! It's a small step but it is my step.